Coastalsurvey

Kevin O’Driscoll is a scientist, father, surfer, teacher, environmental activist and Kook. It’s this last occupation that has brought O’Driscoll the most notoriety, at least among a certain segment of overeducated, underemployed surfers.

As founder of Kooks Anonymous, a highly selective newsgroup of surfers based on the East Coast of the United States, O’Driscoll has built a community where there was none before and used the net as a tool for grassroots environmental organizing. Coastalsurvey e-mailed him the following questions, and he volleyed back these answers.

Q. How long have you been surfing?

A. My father taught me to bodysurf as soon as I could swim at the age of around 6 or 7. Then I rode mats and Styrofoam boards on the Jersey shore since the late ’60s, but I started to learn stand-up surfing when I turned sixteen in the summer of ’76. I also went to see my first concert that year, it was The Beach Boys at Madison Square Garden. In the winter of that year my Grandfather took me to Hawaii. The first day at Waikiki beach I rented one of those huge old boards from the beach boys and when I stood and rode one straight in I was hooked for life.

The next day I made my Grampa take a taxi with me across Honolulu to the “Lightning Bolt” Surf Shop. The taxi driver took the long way around town to rack up a good fare, since we were such obvious tourists, and I still remember my Grandfather rolling his eyes and shaking his head. I rented a 7 foot Aipa Stinger and for the next couple of days I paddled way out to Threes and surfed with the locals who were pretty friendly to this skinny haole kid from New Jersey.

When I was getting back in the cab to return the Stinger to the shop I banged the tail on the curb and knocked off one side of the swallow tail. So I had to bring this board back to Gerry Lopez and Rory Russell (so I imagined anyway) in two pieces. You can imagine how mortified I was, but the guy in the shop was totally cool. A Hawaiian local at Threes actually noticed me trying to learn and took the time to teach me how to slide right by angling the take off. That was a great wave to learn on, but I got a really bad sunburn. I also surfed in Maui and Kauai on that trip, where I got totally whipped in the more powerful waves. So I guess that I’ve been a full-on surfin’ kook for the past 23 years.

Q. A lot of guys stop surfing about the time they get their first real job. What keeps you in it?

A. A total love of the sport. Primarily there is the terror of paddling out, the rush of catching the wave, and the joy of riding it. Of course there is also an element of exhibitionism, as well as the competitive nature of the sport which are really at the core of surfing as an adult. I mean its hard work to catch waves when there are a bunch of aggro college kids trying to paddle circles around you! Of course I have had thin years and fat ones surfing. I have found that my surfing in general reflects my outlook on life. When my life is going well, I’m feeling strong and healthy and I surf better. If I’m bumming out then I loose my edge in the water. Surfing keeps me fit both physically and mentally.

Q. What’s your title at Columbia and can you tell me briefly about a recent project you’ve worked on?

A. I’m an Assistant Professor of Molecular Neuro-Oncology in Pediatric Neurology. Last year I co-authored a paper in the top international human genetics journal “Nature Genetics” which described mutations in a glucose transporter gene that cause children to have epilepsy and mental retardation. These kids can’t get enough glucose in their brains. Now I’m working on a chemotherapy project for people with brain tumors. We discovered that bryostatin, a compound isolated from a coral reef organism can act to greatly enhance the sensitivity of brain tumor cells to the chemotherapy drug taxol. The project is pretty cool since these tumors, gliomas, are often deadly. Like bryostatin, taxol is a natural product, in this case isolated from the bark of the pacific yew tree. Its studies like these that underscore the importance of preserving the earth’s biodiversity. Nature is the best chemist and pharmacologist.

Q. When and where was your last good session surfing?

A. I had a really nice first session of 1999 at Manasquan Inlet, NJ in January with head high waves and only three guys out. The water was 43F, the winds were SW and the main peak was breaking hollow. There was a wrecked clamming boat on the north jetty that day. Since then the waves this year have been fairly consistent for the East coast. My last session was at Ortley Beach, NJ, last Wednesday night. I met up with Frank De Silva, a.k.a. Fringnut, who let me borrow one of his magnificent collection of vintage longboards. The waves were mushy and about 2 feet, with onshore winds, lotsa jellyfish and the tide was too high. But still, I had a great time.

Q. When did you decide to found Kooks Anonymous?

A. Having a desk and lab job, I don’t get to surf everyday but I still want surfing to be a part of my life everyday. I was initially inspired in 1996, by Andrew Paulson and his electronic New England Surfrider’s Club to which I belonged for about a year. Kevin Casey of Kape Kod did the original website design including the kOOks logo, and Cindy Camilari did the second edition. Currently we are on our third edition which can be seen at the geocities site [Geocities was acquired by Yahoo and is now part of Yahoo Groups]. Kevin Casey and I are now preparing a fourth edition of the kooks site which will be found at www.kooksanonymous.org later this summer.

The kOOks list originated with my friends Wave Dave Mixon, Doug Auld, and Holger Gruenert when we used to share our forecasts for waves. When I put that cc list together with some other friends, including an ex roommate/surf trip collaborator Lex Mackerell, my brother-in-law John Adelhelm, the surf activists Keith Treco formerly of NY Surfrider Foundation, Brian Unger of NJ Surfers Environmental Alliance, and some of the most prolific members of the NESRC including the Minister David Ryan, Kevin Casey and John Webster the thing was born. Now the kOOks list has a life of its own, we have gone international, and we have some of the most colorful East Coast surfers as members. The best things about it are that we are still underground, and nobody takes themselves too seriously.

Ten year after: Fring, KOD and Kat. Kevin in center, somewhere in Kali

Q. What has the Kooks list given you — besides carpal tunnel syndrome?

A. A lot of way-kool kooks and kahunas to call friends.

Q. If you could surf like anybody, who would it be?

A. A genetic chimera of Skip Frye and Tom Carroll. Grace and Power!

Q. If you could surf anywhere on the planet, where would you go?

A. Hawaii, of course. I’m planning a trip to the North Shore of Maui for the Y2K celebration.

Q. You have a strong commitment to environmental activism. Why do you think it’s important for surfers to get involved in protecting the ocean and why don’t more surfers get active?

A. Surfers are typically young, and obsessed with having fun, which is great. They just need a little education on issues, organization and motivation, but they do get active, and especially on issues that hit close to home.

When I was learning to surf the waters of Monmouth Co. were filthy with raw human sewage. During the ’80s the sewage sludge from NYC was dumped 100 miles offshore of Long Beach Island. Seeing the resultant shift of filthy brown waters from up North Jersey to South Jersey, where I remembered crystal clear gulf stream waters, was a motivating force for me. I hate giving lip service, despise enviro-phonies who use environmental issues as a marketing scam to make money, and as a scientist, I try to back up my knowledge and emotions with action.

The Surfer’s Environmental Alliance in New Jersey has given me the platform to be outspoken on the issues of limiting ocean disposal of dredge spoils from New York Harbor. The bottom sediments of the Harbor are heavily contaminated with carcinogenic chemicals from industrial pollution.

Recently I have had the opportunity to start pulling together my interests in the ocean environment and cancer research with work I have initiated as a member of Columbia University’s Earth Institute. I also have a good relationship with Cindy Zipf of Clean Ocean Action who has been the leader of the grass roots environmentalist movement to end ocean disposal of sewage sludge and dredge spoils off of New York and New Jersey beaches. The action is at the level of the individual, and every little effort counts whether its sending $25 to join the Surfrider Foundation or picking up garbage some ass left on the beach. Being active makes you feel good about yourself!

Q. NYC or California?

A. Everybody surfs in California, and there are almost always waves. If I lived in California I would probably be just like every other surf bum. Living on the East Coast gives you enough time to have a meaningful career, family life etc. and still catch waves almost whenever there are any. Of course, that assumes you’re not punching a clock or working in corporate environment.

There is also a personal price to be paid for living the East Coast surfer lifestyle. You undoubtedly get the reputation for being indecisive, if not irresponsible. People typically have a hard time with your constant inability to lock into firm plans because of hedging on the surf being good. Contrary to popular belief, the wave quality is excellent on the East coast, its just very much more elusive and a bit smaller than surf on the West coast.