Coastalsurvey

Like the Spanish architecture, which conceals beautiful courtyards and bright groves of oranges behind thick walls, Iberia hides its best surf spots from plain view. Looking at a map of the Iberian Peninsula – Spain and Portugal together – it seems obvious that the region would receive Europe’s best surf, yet with a few exceptions the casual visitor would miss the Iberian surfing scene altogether.

Crossing from France into the urban sprawl of San Sebastian, no one would suspect that bustling city of harboring surfers. The same holds for the charming old town of Zarautz, just west of San Sebastian.

At Zarautz you can surf the town beach, hang out in the bars (some of which serve Guinness), or pick up a cheap board from one of the many surf shops in town. Pukas, an excellent Spanish board, is made near here and some bargains can be found among the used boards. Compare that with prices in French surf shops and a trip south of the border almost becomes mandatory if you snap your favorite stick at Hossegor.

If there’s a swell running, keep an eye out for Puta Roca as you drive west from Zarautz. “Whore Rock” is one of the heaviest right-hand point breaks in Europe, piling into a rocky cove in full view of the main road. It’s said to hold 20- foot plus waves, but if the swell is less than four foot, you’d never know it’s there.

It’s possible to get to Guernika and Mundaka fairly quickly by highway, but that would miss out on one of the most scenic drives in El Pais Vasco. The secondary road that leads to Guernika by way of the coast will remind Californians of Big Sur. It clings to the hillsides as it winds through tall forests of eucalyptus and pine, occasionally providing views of the Atlantic, a thousand feet below. Where the road turns to follow the river back inland to Guernika, you will find some sandbanks that kick up waves when Mundaka is too small to break.

Mundaka itself is a pretty, old Basque village of tight alleyways and stone stairs woven around three small harbors. It is instantly recognizable by the church, which marks what is undoubtedly one of the best left-hand rivermouth breaks in the world. Oddly the town of Mundaka seems oblivious to the world-class surf spot in its backyard. Apart from one surf shop overlooking the break, there aren’t many concessions to the thousands of surfers who make Mundaka part of their European pilgrimage each year.

Surfers with vans camp along the road leading to the surf shop, or in the parking lot opposite the church. For surfers who aren’t into urban camping or pricey hotels, there is a small campground just upriver from town.

While it can be ridden in waist-high swell, Mundaka really comes into its own when the waves are overhead. That’s when the spot delivers drop-and-go tubes roaring over the shoals for 300 meters or more. At that size, the spot demands respect. Every year a few surfers, overwhelmed by the tricky combination of current, swell and tide, drown at Mundaka.

Between Mundaka and Bilbao are several spots worth surfing. The easiest to find is Bakios, named for a small, modern resort town northwest of Mundaka. There’s an excellent beach break there that works on low to mid tides.

Beyond Bilbao and west of Laredo-Santander’s urban grid, is the region of northern Spain called Asturias. Asturias is truly the Costa Verde. Everything grows in those country hills from dates and bananas to corn and apples.

La Isla, Sunday afternoon

In eastern Asturias, where the waters of the Sierra de Cuera wash down to the sea, there are some lovely rivermouth beachbreak and pointbreak set ups. Check the coastal roads between San Vincente and Ribadesella. West of Ribadesella, Playa de Vega and La Isla are also worth a look.

The best-known spot in Asturias is Rodiles, a first-rate rivermouth and beachbreak in a pristine cove. There’s free camping beneath the eucalyptus trees by the beach, a string of restaurants and bars, and a pay campground near the road’s end with lukewarm showers. When the surf gets good an aggro crowd of pseudo-locals can monopolize the left at the river’s mouth. Most of them are students from nearby Gijon; the few surfers who actually live in Rodiles are more welcoming. Even with the minor hassles from “locals”, Rodiles can be a hard place to leave.

Spain’s Northwest is Galicia, a rainy region of dense forests and lonely beaches. You’re most likely to find a wave, and some company, at Pantin, a beachbreak a few miles west of Cediera. In a region with dozens of surf spots, Pantin owes its consistency to its NNW exposure and regular sandbanks that can wedge up some punchy peaks.

A few miles south of Pantin is a secluded beach called Campobelo It’s not easy to find, but its sheltered location can make it a key option when the wind is up. Follow the signs for Campobelo off the secondary road to Ferrol, then follow your nose. The break is down a narrow, one-lane track. There’s parking at a bar overlooking the beach, but no camping.

In contrast to Galicia’s often gloomy weather, Portugal enjoys sunny skies year round. Its water temperature hovers around 58F winter and summer and it receives remarkably consistent swell. Factor in the lowest cost of living in Western Europe, and you’ve got the Continent’s best surf destination.

South of Porto, the old resort town of Espinho has a series of jetties that set up some great waves over a rock/sand bottom. The town also has a small fishing fleet, so watch out for fisherman’s lines and nets in the water. Espinho gets some crowds, but with 30 kilometers of beaches to the south of town with similar conditions it’s easy to get a wave to yourself. Camping in Espinho is dodgy, however, a comfortable hotel room will only set you back $30.

Espinho town beach, on another Sunday afternoon

South of Espinho are several pleasant but undistinguished beachbreak towns that are worth a look if you have the time. Palheiros de Mira may be the best of that lot.

Further south is the Buacros/Fig do Foz nexus, which can be a wave mecca when the conditions line up. Figueira do Foz is an industrial town with broad beaches to the north and south of a polluted river. Buacros is a long right pointbreak, which lays below the headland on Fig’s northern boundary. Depending on how the sand fills in the reef in a given season, you can get several fast sections at Buacros or one mega-long ride. The beach breaks in Fig have their moments and the town is casual about feral surfers camping along the shore. If the surf goes flat, check the ancient Roman ruins at Coimbra, 40 kilometers inland.

Another worthwhile stop on the drive south is Nazare. Nazare is a picturesque village of whitewashed houses and cobblestone lanes beneath a massive headland. The crescent of beach that the town is built around is too steep to hold a wave, but the break on the north side of the cliffs is reported to go off on big SW swells. Follow the signs over the headland to the water park and Pria del Norte. Easy camping at the north beach.

Peniche is one of Portugal’s surfing centers, however, owing to its distance from Lisboa and Porto, it doesn’t see the crowds that Ericea does. Peniche is a funky old town that sits on a teardrop-shaped peninsula. There are good breaks to the north and south of the peninsula. North of town, Baleal and Lagide both offer solid rock/sand beachbreak conditions. The parking lots here play host to an ever-changing encampment of surf vans and the action on the pavement is often more interesting than what’s going on in the water.

South of the peninsula, Molho and Supertubos can serve up exceptionally hollow beach break on the right swell. When the wind is offshore Supertubos is enveloped in a thick pong from the nearby fish factory.

A few kilometers south along the coast, Consolacao has a great right and left pointbreak combo while Sao Bernadino has an often overlooked reefbreak. Twelve kilometers inland, the medieval hill town of Obidos is a fine afternoon’s detour.

Just an hour and a half north of Lisbon, Ericea is Portugal’s most popular surf zone. This once-quiet fishing village is now hemmed in by condos, gas stations, and fast-food marts. The breaks to the north of town – Ilha D’Ribera, Coxos, and Sao Laurenco – are less built-up but can still get crowded in the water. Of the three, Ilha D’ Ribera is the most consistent with a dependable right breaking into a sheltered cove. It’s also a popular contest venue and campsite for travelling surfers. With the crowds, unfortunately, come rip-offs. Don’t leave gear unattended.

If Ericea is the future of Portugese surfing, the South Coast is its past. The region south of Setubal, between Sagres and Sines still has a few unspoiled coastal villages, remote pointbreaks and hidden coves. The waves are a bit more consistent north of Lisbon, but the weather on the edge of the Algarve is delightful, the surf is sometimes stellar, and the living is easy.

A four-wheel drive vehicle would be helpful in exploring some parts of the South Coast as would jerry cans full of water and a vanload of provisions. Once you find that perfect wave, you’ll want to stay awhile.

No Iberian tour would be complete without mention of Andalucia. The far south of Spain, from Cadiz to Tarifa has some surf, although you wouldn’t know it most days of the year. Spots like Cabo Roche, Canos de Mecca, and Bolonia occasionally get waves, but more often they’re blown flat by the east wind that comes off the Mediterranean – the Levant – which can howl for days. If windsurfing’s your game, Andalucia is a great place to play; if you’re looking for waves, stick to Portugal.

If You Go …

Here are a few links to help plan your trip to Spain and Portugal: