After three days of public bus (indo style) and masses of bullshit I got
there, Southwest coast of S. that is….. 32 hours of village interrogation I went straight to the south coast. Hitching had never been so easy, rarely did they pass me by. The vehicles consisted of ; dump trucks, fuel trucks,company buses from the copper mine, motorcycles and heavy equipment.
Got to a fancy resort (that I later became a local at) and happy to see big
mounds of water with a left breaking. Paddled out alone and under-gunned
realizing it was much smaller from land got a couple big boys and called it,
“testing”.
Next day went to the same place and couldn’t believe that the wide channel
was closing out. Went back grabbed my 7’4″ and headed to SS. Met a
guy when I first arrived who was coming in on a fishing boat who suggested
we eat first.
Tim Abbott was his name. Hawaiian pipe charger and now friend forever due to the following experience. Ate, took a boat out with his girl and said a
prayer before jumping in. I knew it was solid!!
Just a bit nervous due to the fact it’s been over a month since I was
comfortable … three weeks in France with a Basque Queen draining my
testosterone glands making me weak, plus you add the three and a half days
traveled. But it’s why I went!!
I just thought solid six, “ain’t no thing”. Boy was I wrong!!
Then the set came, dug wide and was alive. Most beautiful empty waves I have ever seen in my life, solid 8!
Personally I would say bigger but if I were to tell ya the truth you wouldn’t believe me.
In position for the incoming bombs, I was nervous … and they came.
Tim was too deep, but I was in the spot and attempted the second of six …
got pitched, dragged and rattled. Coming up gasping for air thinking I bit
the reef and thought I had a mouthful of broken teeth. Luckily just some rocks I had scored — luckily.
First wave was such a surprise , so fast making the drop, momentum with
gravity flung my right arm over my head, off balance, belly out, watched the
lip pitch over my head the first of a three barrel, 15-second ride. I have
never experienced anything like it!!
Just Tim and I taking turns, getting the best the world has to offer.
The sets seemed to grow as the tide was sucking off the reef. Made one drop
somehow , so easy and was piped in the biggest cylindrical house I’ve ever
been in, it kept on throwing further and further in front of me. NEVER BEEN
IN ANYTHING THAT COMPARES (Mundaka was big and round).
So happy, So happy !!! The wave of my life!
Partied heavy (North shore style) taken home by the police … and was flat
beat for round two. Two yachts full of boat goats, no taxi to the line up,
the 1.5 kilometer trek with no water. Two guys in the water, guy on land
filming, guy taking photos for Surfing Life.
Got one little one and took three ugly wipeouts. Ego bruised paddled in.
Nothing will compare to June 26 except another trip to Malok with a friend,
anyone??
– PJM
