Category Archives: Atlantic
In Morocco, Part 3: South
The swell dropped after Christmas, only to be replaced by a new pulse from a system far off in the North Atlantic. We were seated on a rug in front of Simon and Esther’s, passing a fat one around and … Continue reading
In Morocco, Part 2: On the Point
A welter of trails ran through the thorny scrub that covered the dunes. Partway along the path, I found a camel barring my way. The beast was enormous, perhaps two meters high at the shoulder, and it showed no inclination … Continue reading
In Morocco, Part One: The Road to the Coast
It started as a tingling behind the ears and along the forearms. The floor seemed to buckle and drop away beneath my feet. I put my glass of tea down and looked at my host. Ahmed was talking about the … Continue reading
Where The Wine Is Cheaper Than Coca-Cola: Surfing France
On Sundays the French countryside wakes slowly. The ponts across the Loire slept on a bed of mist. One patisserie in Montsoreau was open. An old man stood chatting in the doorway, a pair of baguettes under his arm. The … Continue reading
In The Dragon’s Lair: Surfing Wales
The western parts of Wales are like a fairy tale illustrated by Maxfield Parrish. It’s a landscape of dense fogs, rolling hills, mossy dark forests and crenelated castles. The Welsh flag bears the image of a dragon and that seems … Continue reading
Behind the Garden Wall: Iberia
Like the Spanish architecture, which conceals beautiful courtyards and bright groves of oranges behind thick walls, Iberia hides its best surf spots from plain view. Looking at a map of the Iberian Peninsula – Spain and Portugal together – it … Continue reading
Coastlives: Brian Wilson
Brian Wilson has paddled more miles in his 37 years than most people will walk in a lifetime. Two of his kayak trips have resulted in books. The first, Blazing Paddles, recounts his 1985 circumnavigation of the Scottish coastline. In … Continue reading
Surfing Scotland, Part 3: Southward
Coasting to a stop beside the vans, I looked again at the waves. I wasn’t epic, but it was plausible and glittering in that lime-green hue, the waist-high waves looked like fun. I asked one of the surfers in the … Continue reading
Surfing Scotland Part 2: The Islands
The little girl’s tiny green face was the picture of woe. Like many other passengers on the ferry crossing The Minch she was seasick, but she wasn’t lying down or crying like the others. She was sitting up and staring … Continue reading
Surfing Scotland Part 1: The Highlands
“Aye, ye jest go up tha hill here, through two gates, an when ye git over tha hill ye’ll see tha loch on yer right. Cross the moor an on tha far side o’ tha loch ye’ll find tha track.” … Continue reading