Category Archives: Journal
East of Bali: Surfing Indonesia
May 5: The reef is more than a kilometer from shore. At low tide you can wade out through cultivated plots of agar seaweed, over steps of nubby coral and basins of sand. Big red starfish dot the aquascape like … Continue reading
CitySurfer's Journal: 2000
January 2000 Happy New year, Thanks for the note. I’m still in Morocco surfing. Will stay here another two weeks then get out of the country, sell the van and fly to india. Trouble is, it would be easy to … Continue reading
India Notes, Part 1
Silva rerum is a Latin term R. Kapuscinski liked to use. It means “the forest of things.” India is a vast forest of things, and people. Timeline: 2000 BC – Indus Valley Civ 1500 BC – Vedic/Aryan civ, beginning of … Continue reading
CitySurfer's Journal: Summer and Fall 1999
July 1999 Thanks Al and Pete for cleaning up the apartment. I guess I owe you guys a dinner, at least. Just didn’t leave enough time to get it all done. London was cool. We had dinner in Brixton last … Continue reading
CitySurfer's Journal: Winter 1999
Tue, 17 Nov 1998 From: barney@interport.net Subject: Re: surf1ng Hi Lisa, I haven’t been in the water in about a month. We’ve had a rotten weather pattern the last four weeks. Although a little chest high swell reportedly splashed ashore … Continue reading
CitySurfers Journal: Fall 1998
Date: Tues, 25 Aug 1998 Score!!!!!!! Tuesday was the day in North Jersey. Brendan and I checked Sandy Hook first where the swell was ridiculously small. We checked a bunch of breaks before settling on Loch Somethingorother which had about … Continue reading
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Tagged montauk, nj, surf
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CitySurfers Journal: Summer 1998
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 Subject: Re: anyone on it today? Weekend report: Saturday – hung out in NYC visiting people. Drove to Providence in the evening. Sunday – surfed Pt. Judith with about 20 guys out at noon. Wind … Continue reading
CitySurfer's Journal: Spring 1998, Part 2
Jesse caught up with me by the water’s edge. “So, why’d we stop here?” he asked. “No reason.” We got back in the car and continued north along the coast. Jesse had a plastic bag full of powdery Mexican chocolate … Continue reading