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Drive the Wheels Off It:
Tips for Buying a Van in Europe

If you're planning to do the grand European surfing tour, you'll want to buy a van. Having your own transport means you can get to all those out-of-the-way spots not served by bus or train and owning a van means you won't have to pay for hotels and restaurants along the way, since your bed and your kitchen come with you. Obviously, the amount of cash invested up front makes ownership impractical for stays of less than six weeks, but for treks of more than a couple of months, having a van can actually save you money.

Before you part with a big piece of your vacation cash, consider where you intend to sell the van. If you buy the vehicle in Britain, it will likely come with right-hand drive. That means you'll have to take it back to England to sell it, since the rest of Europe drives on the right side of the road and isn't interested in buying an old van with the steering wheel in the wrong place. For that reason a lot of travelers buy their wheels in Amsterdam or Germany. Also consider the season you'll be selling it in. The market is a lot stronger for sellers at the beginning and the end of summer. Trying to unload the van during the bleak Northern European winter can take some time.

Next you'll need a local address, ideally a friend's place in Amsterdam or London where you can claim residence and receive mail. Failing that, set yourself up in a cheap hotel for a week or two while you shop around.

Both London and Amsterdam have lively markets for used vehicles with several areas that serve as impromptu used-car lots for travelers. Ask around to locate these places, which move from season to season, or check local papers and at universities, hostels and stores. See also www.tntmag.co.uk in London and www.timeout.com in Amsterdam.

Go diesel, if possible. Diesel fuel is available everywhere and is usually cheaper than petrol. Generally diesel engines last longer and require less maintenance as well. Some Mercedes van owners have clocked over a half million miles on their old engines.

Buying an old vehicle means you're taking a chance. If you're still uncertain of the van's basic soundness after taking it for a test drive, pay a mechanic to look it over.

Secondary to mechanical viability is space. A little extra room and niceties like a pop-top sleeping platform can go a long way toward preserving friendships in tight quarters.

The going rate for used vans in the autumn of 1999 was $1000 US to $2500 US. Of course you can spend more, or possibly less, but most van trekkers found functional vehicles in this price range.

In Britain try to get a van with several months left on its MOT. This means that it's certified roadworthy and its tax is paid up until the next inspection. There should be a sticker on the windscreen indicating when its MOT expires. The plates stay with the vehicle, but to keep things on the up and up, you'll want to get a bill of sale from the seller and the registration papers, which have a section to fill out recording change of ownership. Send the completed form to the motor vehicles department and they'll send you a new set of registration papers with your name on them in a week or two. Any post office can help you with the necessary papers.

Holland, no doubt, has its own registration laws, but the Coastalsurvey bought its van in London, so you'll have to ask the locals about the Dutch legalities.

Wherever you drive in Europe or Africa, you'll need a green card indicating that you have collision insurance. A full year of even a bare-bones policy with a major carrier like AA can be expensive (around $1500 US per year), so it's best to shop around for a short-term policy. Again, TNT Magazine in London has ads for short-term insurance brokers. The best deal the Survey found was with Down Under Insurance, which has offices in London, for about $200 US covering four months of driving in Europe.

Few insurance companies will cover driving in Morocco or other parts of Africa on standard policies. Fortunately, the Moroccans are aware of this and are happy to sell you temporary insurance for driving in their country. You can buy a one- month insurance badge covering probably very little for about $80 US at the border. If you want to stay longer, there are insurance brokers in big towns that can sell you more insurance at the same price.

Note: If you plan on driving further into Africa or overland into Asia from Europe, you will need a carnet de passage for your trip. This is essentially a portable bond for your vehicle, which assures the various customs authorities that you will not sell your van in-country. It also saves you having to post large cash guarantees on entering countries that enforce this rule. Ask your insurance broker how to get one.

Morocco does not require a carnet de passage, but if you sell your van there and try to leave without the vehicle, you will be liable for up to three times its value. This is enforced with a control number that's stamped into your passport upon entering Morocco. A computer file is linked to that number and the file is called up when you leave the country. It tells border officials if you had a vehicle or other valuable goods with you when you arrived. Should you total the van in Morocco, make sure you get all relevant papers from the local cops, or face a stiff penalties when you go to leave.

A lot of Moroccans will tell you that the rules can be finessed with a little creative paperwork, but then they won't be trying to leave the country with a pocket full of Dirhams. Reportedly, other African countries like Senegal, Mali and Guinea are easy about importing vehicles for sale, but this has not yet been confirmed.

For added peace of mind, you may want to get breakdown cover for your old van. That means if she gives up the ghost on the road, you get free towing to a certified mechanic and the insurance company pays for the labor involved in fixing the thing. Some policies also provide for a free rental car and/or ticket back to Britain. The Royal Automobile Club had the best deal we found on breakdown cover: about $200 US for one year in Europe and Britain. Check them out at www.rac.co.uk . If you break down without insurance, try to do it in Spain. Spanish mechanics at major garages are pros who do good work at fair prices.

If all this seems too complicated, you can always do what our Australian friends did: Buy the van in a day, seal the deal with a handshake, get behind the wheel and go. No papers, no insurance, no worries, mate!