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Into The Green: Surfing Ireland

Ireland cops considerable swell from the North Atlantic storm patterns, but it's also blasted by winds fierce enough to tear the roofs off of houses and drenched by seemingly endless rains. Throw in radical tide changes and it can be a long wait for a clean swell.

One Easky local told about an American surfing mag that sent a crew of name- brand surfers and a top photographer to Donegal Bay to get the scoop on Irish surfing. They did - after 11 weeks of waiting.

If you're a surfer without quite as much time as to spare as the locals, the best bet would probably be to stay at one of the island's surfing centers like Bundoran, Easky or Doolin, rent a bungalow or a cheap room in one of the hostels, and make yourself comfortable. The weather is often cold and wet, so a warm, dry base of operations makes for a much better trip.

Bundoran, on Donegal Bay north of Sligo, is home to an excellent reefbreak, quite a few good pubs and several hostels that cater to surfers. Bundoran also boasts Tullan Strand, one of the most consistent breaks in Eire.

Easky, about 45 minutes south of Sligo on Donegal Bay, is a surfer-friendly destination. Although it's just a tiny town, the local council has built bathrooms and showers near the most popular reefs (easily found by looking for the ruined castle tower). The paddock near the tower and the shore road that runs north from there are regularly used by surf vans for camping. The prevailing winds here are southwest, so you have a better chance of finding an offshore breeze at Easky than elsewhere.

In County Clare, the Doolin-Lahinch area is home to many fine breaks. The best known being Crab Island, in Doolin, and the Lahinch town beach. However, as with the rest of the Emerald Isle, a little exploration (aided by a detailed map) can turn up some remarkable good spots. Doolin is the best place to stay. It has two comfortable hostels and several friendly country pubs. On the road between Doolin and Lahinch, the awesome Cliffs of Moher are always worth a visit.

These are just three of Ireland's surfing centers. There are other wave meccas to explore near Portrush in the north, along the western reaches of Donegal Bay, and the renown Dingle Peninsula in the south. The Dingle, where Ryan's Daughter was filmed, is small enough to move around as the wind shifts and pretty enough to make you want to stay.

As with the rest of Eire, the best waves go to the one with the time and knowledge to seek them out. With a bit of luck, that someone could be you.

If You Go. . .

There are a number of associations you can write to for more information:

The Irish Surfing Association
Easkey House, Easkey, County Sligo,
Ireland
tel: 098 49428
email: isasurf@iol.ie

West Coast Surf Club
Tom Buckley, Lahinch Surf Shop,
Lahinch, County Clare
tel: 065 81543
email: bear@iol.ie

Bundoran Surf Club,
Elaine Travers,
Church Rd., Bundoran,
County Donegal
tel: 072 41454

Accommodations

There's a hostel on Easkey's main street in addition to over a dozen self-catering accommodations and B&Bs. Call Kelly at the Hostel 096 49216, or stop by the Easkey House for the complete list of places to stay.

Write to the Independent Hostels Owners of Ireland for their free booklet:
IHO Info Office,
Dooey Hostel, Glencolumcille,
County Donegal,Ireland
tel: 073 30130