The Wharf,
Cowells Beach,Santa Cruz, California
Story and photos by Keith Johnson
Cowells Cove is a pretty mellow longboard spot, a rolling break
known for long rides. A classic learning spot. You don't think
of hollowness, barrels, or extreme when you mention Cowells.
But in the winter, there can be a mean shorebreak at the beach.
The swell surges half way up the pylons at the pier, then hits
hard sand scraped off the beach by the winter storms and wavepounded
into cement. It barrels, and I mean round. It pitches out into
a nice hollow shape. All you have to do is pull in. Dare ya.
This day the break was chest high and incredibly powerful.
Coming into the beach in the safe zone a ways down was hairy
enough. Bodyboarding seemed natural, though brutal. Pulling
in on shortboards, however. . .yeowch. These groms seemed to
have it figured out.
One finds a clean left tube, one right, punches the roof.
The swell was pretty big this day, but the shape wasn't enough
to lure the group of local experts off the parking lot. That
speck right in the middle is a surfer by the way. You can see
a streak on the face, that's another. The current is a real
strong longshore. Not hard to see why. You can almost see it
push in the white in front. I saw one guy paddle out starting
just near the rock in the foreground as I took this. Two minutes
later he was swept completely out of sight to the left.
Steamer Lane, the cliff view.
Driving for position. A small day. Mostly laughter and
no hostility.
Have your picture taken with an otter. Five bucks.
I paddled out with a waterproof camera on this day. The tide
was extremely low and the whole lane was choked with kelp. It
was a struggle to take off, like crawling over a rope carpet,
and the rides were pretty jerky. A pair of otters anchored themselves
with kelp to hold to one spot in the heavy current. Surfers
were doing exactly the same thing.
Lighthouse Point and Seal Rock
The sun was positioned to silhouette these surfers walking
out on the cliffs, getting ready to jump off the point. Does
this remind anyone of Endless Summer?
Up the Coast
Waddell Creek
A windsurfer cranks at Waddell Creek
A classic windsurfing spot. Sideshore and onshore winds are
preferred by windsurfers, and Waddell Creek usually provides
force five or six winds. That's howling in regular wind talk.
The waves are perfect for jumping and riding alike. This guy
was outrunning some mast-high faces, cutting back and forth,
and of course getting big air. You can see the creek flowing
through the beach in the foreground. Other creeks on the coast
stop dead at the beach and "percolate through." The
current in the break will be different, probably lessened.
Carrying a rig past the outflow of Waddell Creek
This is a classic situation seen along Highway 1 along the
coast; cliffs running down to the road. The cliffs used to erode
into the sea. Now they erode onto the highway. Every year tons
of rock must be transferred across the road. The California
Transit Authority has taken over some of mother nature's duties.
Check out the full parking lot. Some are the campers and pickups
preferred by windsurfers, who have to carry a lot of gear. At
least two sails are necessary, and some carry two fully rigged
boom and sail combos. The other cars are spectators like me,
or folks driving along the coast who pulled in for a rest.
Half Moon Bay

Half Moon Bay jetty
Still rough from a storm the day before
Half Moon Bay, known for nearby Mavericks, has some good surf
for regular surf joes. The radar dish is just visible in the
background. You can imagine behind the console some big wave
surfer in uniform, whose surf nickname is of course "Radar",
tracking storms when the general isn't looking.
On this rough day I bodysurfed some thick blown out waves,
peaky overhead faces, looking for shoulders and finding a few.
It was easy to get out bodysurfing, using the currents and extra
large Duck Feet, but tough for those with any sort of board.
The water had warmed up to a tolerable 52 degrees.
There is a fair current, a swift longshore that can carry you
down the beach a ways. It also sucks out real hard after a set,
although it's not technically a rip. If you're bodysurfing,
it's just another free ride. Unsuspecting waders, however, beware.
The jetty on a calmer day
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